Bagru is a dyer's town. It sits about thirty kilometres outside Jaipur, and it is known for one thing above everything else: printing with colour that comes out of plants and out of the ground rather than out of a chemical drum.
Stage one, preparing the cloth: Loom-state cotton arrives stiff with starch and natural waxes, and dye will not sit evenly on it. The cloth is washed hard, then steeped in harda, a tannin taken from myrobalan nut. Harda leaves the pale yellowish cast that a lot of Bagru cloth carries underneath its pattern. It also lets the dyes bond.
Stage two, carving the blocks: Every colour in a design needs its own block, cut by hand from seasoned teak. Teak holds a fine edge. A floral repeat is usually carved as an outline block plus one filler block for each colour that goes into it. Blocks wear down with use and get recut, which is part of why the same design printed in two workshops never comes out quite identical.
Stage three, the resist: Wherever the cloth has to stay pale, printers press on dabu, a paste of black clay, gum, wheat chaff, and lime. Sawdust is scattered over the wet paste so it cannot smudge. It dries hard. The resist stops dye reaching the cloth beneath it, which means the white and pale areas in a finished Bagru piece were protected rather than bleached out afterwards.
Stage four, the indigo vat: Indigo will not dissolve in water and cannot simply be painted on. It is fermented in a sunken vat until the liquid turns a yellowish green, and cloth lifted out of it comes up that same colour, then turns blue in the open air as it oxidises. The blue arrives in the air, not in the vat. Depth is built by dipping again and again rather than by mixing a stronger bath, so a dark indigo ground means many cycles.
Stage five, washing and drying: The dabu paste is washed out, which lifts the resist away and reveals the pale pattern that was hiding under it. The cloth is then spread flat in the sun to dry. Drying is not a pause in the process; it is the stage that settles the colour.
Who makes it: This frock reaches eHaat through Access, which works with printing units in and around Jaipur.