Setting Up the Frame Loom: The Kullu frame loom is a fixed wooden structure, typically housed inside the weaver's home. The warp threads are strung vertically at a tension that must stay consistent across the full width. Too loose and the weave buckles. Too tight and the wool snaps.
The Plain-Body Twill: The olive body is woven in a twill pattern, where the weft crosses over two warp threads and under one, producing a diagonal texture visible on close inspection. Twill gives the cloth its soft hand feel and slight stretch, which is why Kullu shawls drape rather than hang stiff. The weaver works a wooden shuttle across the loom, beating each row into place with a comb-like reed.
The Border: Short-Weft Interlocking: The geometric Kullu patti border is where the weaving turns sculptural. Each colour in the pattern is a short length of weft that travels only as far as its block allows. Where two colours meet, the threads interlock around each other, leaving no gap or slit. This is tapestry technique, not jacquard.
Colour Changes: The border palette for this olive variant uses contrasting tones chosen to stand against the body colour. Each change requires the weaver to pick up a different bobbin and interlock the outgoing thread before continuing. On a complex border, a single row can involve four or five such changes, each by hand.
Fringing and Finishing: Once the weaving is done, the shawl is cut from the loom. The exposed warp threads at each end are hand-knotted into fringe and trimmed to length. A light brushing raises the surface nap, softening the texture for skin contact.