Where the name comes from: The chukka is generally traced to polo. A period of play in a polo match is a chukka, a word usually linked to the Hindi chakkar, a round, and the game itself reached British officers from Manipur in the nineteenth century. Players are said to have pulled on short ankle boots between chukkas. So a boot made in Chennai carries a name with Indian roots.
Cutting a simple pattern: A chukka is one of the plainest boot patterns there is, usually just a vamp and two quarters. Fewer pieces means fewer seams. With so few pieces there is nowhere to hide a flaw, so each piece is cut from a clean area of the suede. The nap is normally kept running the same way on both boots, which keeps the tan reading evenly across the pair.
Closing the upper: The quarters are stitched on top of the vamp, which creates the open lacing that makes a chukka easy to slip on and adjust. Two eyelets are set on each side. Tan thread runs round the collar and down the quarters. A leather pull loop is sewn at the heel and a lighter leather lining goes in behind.
Lasting: The closed upper is pulled over an ankle-boot last by hand and left to settle before anything else happens. This rest is what lets the suede hold the rounded toe and the shape around the ankle. Rushed, it would sag.
The welt and the sole: A brown welt strip runs round the edge of the boot, stitched in pale thread, and the cream lugged sole sits beneath it. It is a welted sole.
Finishing: The nap is brushed up so the suede looks even, the laces go in and the insole is fitted. Both boots are checked side by side for colour.
Telling it is handmade: No two pairs come out identical. Look at the stitch line on the collar and you will see small, even variations in spacing. Hold the two boots together too, because tan suede is a natural material, and a slight difference in nap and depth of colour between them is expected rather than a defect.