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Close-up of brass Dokra spiral necklace and coiled spiral earring worn with a coral striped saree and white blouse

Woman wearing brass spiral necklace set at the collarbone, matching spiral earring visible, coral and pink saree

Brass spiral collar necklace with row of coiled discs worn over a white blouse, head tilted, spiral earring at ear

Brass Dokra bead strand with hanging spiral discs worn at the base of the neck with a striped handloom saree

Spiral Coin Brass Necklace Set

Curated by Trifed

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Product Details

A brass collar necklace with a row of spiral discs hanging from a close strand of small Dokra beads, made in West Bengal and sourced through Trifed. Each disc is a tight flat coil with an open eye at the centre, and the discs swing a little as you move. The set comes with matching spiral earrings on hook wires, so you can wear them together or apart.

MaterialBrass

Art TypeBrass Metal Craft

Packaging Dimension6x4x3"

Materials & Care

Durable and artisan-made; handle with care and keep away from moisture to prevent tarnishing Avoid contact with water and perfumes. Spot clean with a soft, dry cloth.

Product Disclosure

SKU: TR-BRNP-CO-01Style Code: TR-BRNP-COHSN Code: 97030000Region: KolkataState: West bengal

Curated by Trifed

Each piece is handcrafted, so slight variations in colour, texture and dimension are natural and celebrate its handmade origin.

This set sits right at the base of the neck and fans out along the collarbone, so the neckline under it decides everything. Give it bare skin or a plain fabric to rest on. It needs room.

With a saree: The photos show the natural pairing: a handloom saree in coral and pink stripes with a plain white blouse, where the warm brass picks up the coral and the spirals sit cleanly on the white. A round or boat-neck blouse works best. Keep bangles thin so the necklace stays the focus.

With a kurta to work: Choose a kurta with a wide round or square neck in a solid colour such as indigo, rust, olive or off-white. On busier days, wear only the earrings: a single coiled spiral at each ear is enough on its own, and the necklace can wait for the evening.

With western wear: Over a plain black or white top with a scoop neck, or an open-collar linen shirt, the row of discs becomes the one strong detail in the outfit. Small brass or no rings, nothing else at the neck.

Frame and neckline: Because the discs hang below the strand, the necklace reads wider than a plain choker. It flatters a longer neck and sloping shoulders, and on a shorter neck it works best with the neckline cut low and open. Skip it with high necks, collars buttoned to the top, or heavy embroidered yokes.

Care while wearing: Put the set on after perfume and lotion, not before. Brass reacts with sweat and moisture, so take it off before bathing, exercise or sleep, and wipe it with a dry cloth before you put it away. Store the necklace flat, or hang it, so the spiral discs do not catch on each other.

Most Dokra jewellery is about the bead. This set is about the spiral, and about how a row of them is made to hang evenly from one strand.

The beads: The strand is built from small round brass beads that Trifed lists as Dokra, the lost-wax casting tradition practised in West Bengal by Dokra Kamar metalsmith families, mainly in Bankura and Bardhaman. They are strung close together so the strand reads as one warm line of brass rather than separate beads.

The spiral: Each disc is wound flat from the centre outwards in five or six tight turns, leaving a small open eye in the middle. The outer end is not cut off. It turns up into the loop that carries the disc, so the hanger and the spiral are one continuous piece of brass.

Matching the row: A collar necklace only looks right if the discs read as a set, so they are made close in size and usually laid out side by side before stringing. Look closely and you will still see small differences: one coil a little fuller, one eye slightly off centre. That is the hand, and it is what separates this from a stamped copy.

Stringing: The discs are threaded on through their loops, a few beads apart, so each one can turn and swing freely while the strand holds the spacing. The ones at the ends angle with the curve of the neck. The matching earrings are single spirals made the same way, hung from hook ear wires.

Finishing: The brass is cleaned and rubbed until it warms to a soft gold. Over time it will darken with air and skin, which you can buff back or keep as a patina.

What is a Dokra spiral necklace?

A Dokra spiral necklace is brass jewellery that pairs Dokra beads with flat coiled spiral discs, a form found widely in Dokra metalwork from eastern India. On this set the spirals hang from a strand of small brass beads and come with matching spiral earrings. Expect a soft gold tone with small irregularities from hand finishing.

Is this necklace set made of brass?

This necklace set is brass, with Dokra brass beads and brass spiral discs. Brass is a copper and zinc alloy, which gives it the warm gold tone. If you have a metal allergy, try it for a short time before wearing it for long periods.

Can I wear the spiral earrings and the necklace separately?

Yes, the spiral earrings and the necklace work well separately. The earrings are light enough for everyday wear on their own, and the necklace can be paired with small studs instead. Together they suit sarees and festive wear best.

What outfits go with a brass spiral necklace?

A brass spiral necklace goes best with solid colours and open necklines, such as a handloom saree with a round-neck blouse, a wide-neck kurta, or a plain scoop-neck top. Warm colours like coral, rust, mustard and off-white bring out the brass. Avoid high necks and busy prints, which hide the spiral discs.

How do I clean brass jewellery that has turned dark?

To clean brass jewellery that has darkened, rub it gently with a soft dry cloth, which brings back the shine on the raised surfaces. For heavier tarnish, a paste of lemon juice and a pinch of salt applied briefly and rinsed off quickly works, followed by thorough drying. Many people prefer to leave a light patina, which suits handmade brass.

Will brass jewellery turn my skin green?

Brass jewellery can leave a faint green mark on some people's skin, mainly in heat or when the skin is damp. It is harmless and washes off with soap. Keeping the necklace dry and wiping it after wear reduces it.

Where is this Dokra necklace set from?

This Dokra necklace set comes from West Bengal, according to Trifed, the Government of India marketing federation that supplies it. Dokra casting is also practised in Odisha, Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh, while in West Bengal the main clusters are in Bankura and Bardhaman. Credit stays at community level rather than with one named maker.

Does this Dokra necklace carry a GI tag?

This Dokra necklace is not sold with a GI tag. The Geographical Indication registered in 2008 covers Bastar Dhokra from Chhattisgarh (see ipindia.gov.in/gi), and this set comes from West Bengal. It is sold as West Bengal Dokra metalcraft without a GI claim.

Why does each spiral look slightly different?

Each spiral looks slightly different because it is wound and shaped by hand, not stamped from a die. One coil may be a little fuller or one centre slightly off. These small differences are the sign of handwork, not a defect.

Is a spiral collar necklace comfortable for long wear?

A spiral collar necklace is comfortable for an evening or a day out, since the discs hang loosely and move with you rather than pressing on the skin. Because it sits at the base of the neck, it is best taken off before sleeping. The earrings are light and suit all-day wear.

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